In high only poker the concept of drawing to improve the rank of your hand is simple. The hand can only increase in rank; cards drawn either raise the rank of your hand or they do not. But, in high-low forms of poker, defining improvement is more complicated because there are three kinds of improvement—increasing the rank of your high-hand, qualifying for a low-hand, and improving your low-hand. All hands, no matter how low, have the potential to win the high-pot, but not all hands qualify for the low-pot. To complicate matters further, some drawn cards can simultaneously improve your high and low hands, while some drawn cards can improve your high hand at the expense of disqualifying you from holding a low-hand. To account for these complexities we will define two categories of hands—half-made hands and drawing hands, and within each of these categories define three kinds of hands.
Half-made hands are holdings that can win half the pot, but need improvement to win the other half. The three kinds of half-made hands in order of desirability are:
Coordinated highs are hands that still need to qualify for the low-pot, but have outs for a low-hand that will improve the rank of the high hand. For example consider the best possible coordinated high that you could hold on Sixth Street—2-clubs, 3-clubs, 4-clubs, 5-clubs, 5-diamonds, 5-spades. This hand is already trip 5s, but it has four sequential suited low-cards. It can improve its high ranking to quads, a full house, or a 9-high flush or better without qualifying for the low-pot. But, it can also improve it high ranking to a 5-high or 6-high straight flush, 7-high or 8-high flush, 5-high or 6-high straight and at the same time qualify for a low-hand. It can also qualify for low without improving its high ranking. For example it can become a 7-high or 8-high low-hand, and remain trip 5s.
Uncoordinated highs still need to qualify for the low-pot, but in doing so cannot improve their high ranking. While coordinated highs might have some outs to qualify for the low-pot that do not improve the high ranking, for uncoordinated highs none of the outs for low improve the high hand. Consider the best uncoordinated high-hand that you can hold—A-spades, 2-spades, 3-spades, 5d, Q-spades, K-spades. This hand is an A-K-Q-high flush with four low-cards. There are 16 outs to qualify this hand for the low-pot—any of the 4s, 6s, 7s, or 8s—but none of these outs will change the fact that the high hand is a flush.
Lows are hands that qualify for the low-pot, but rank poorly as high hand. For these hands you are drawing for the high half of the pot. For example the holding—2-hearts, 3-hearts, 4-hearts, 5-hearts, 7-diamonds, 8-spades is a qualified 7-high low-hand, but only an 8-high high hand. However, it has many outs available to improve its high ranking. An A-hearts or 6-hearts would result in a straight flush, a K-hearts, Q-hearts, J-hearts, 10-hearts, 9-hearts, 8-hearts, or 7-hearts, would make it a flush, while an A-clubs, A-diamonds, A-spades, 6-clubs, 6-diamonds, or 6-spades, would make it a straight. Any of the remaining 2s, 3s, 4s, 5s, or unsuited 8s or 7s would make it one pair.
Drawing hands are holdings that need improvement to win any part of the pot. In order of desirability the kinds or drawing hands are:
Scoop draws have outs available that can simultaneously win the high and low pots. Consider a Sixth Street holding of 2-clubs, 3-clubs, 4-clubs, 5-clubs, 9-hearts, 10-spades. This open-ended straight flush-draw has outs that will improve to a high-only flush (K-clubs, Q-clubs, J-clubs, 9-clubs, 10-clubs), outs that will qualify for the low-pot (7-hearts, 7-spades, 7-diamonds, 8-hearts, 8-spades, 8-diamonds) along with outs that qualify for the low-pot and improve the high hand. The 7-clubs or 8-clubs completes a flush and qualifies for low; the A-clubs or 6-clubs completes a straight flush and qualifies for low; the A-diamonds, A-hearts, A-spades, 6-diamonds, 6-hearts, 6-spades, would all complete a straight and qualify for low.
One-way high-draws can never qualify for the low-pot. The only outs available improve the high-ranking. Consider K-spades, K-diamonds, K-hearts, Q-hearts, J-hearts, 10-hearts, played against a 3-hearts, 4-diamonds, 5-spades 6-clubs, 7-diamonds, 8-hearts, 8-spades. The trips Kings will lose to the 8-high straight, but the hand has many outs for a better high hand. It can improve to a straight flush, quads, full house, flush, or straight, and all of these hands would beat a low straight for the high-pot. However, the 8-high straight has a lock on the low-pot because a hand with trip Kings can never qualify.
One-way low-draws are drawing dead for the high-pot, but can still qualify for the low-pot. For example the hand A-clubs, 2-spades, 4-diamonds, 7-hearts, J-clubs, K-spades can never make a high hand better than one pair. If it plays against an opponent showing two pair—10s and 9s—on the board the hand is drawing dead for the high-pot, but drawing any of the remaining 3s, 5s, 6s, or 8s will win the low-pot.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Betting on the end into a heads-up split-pot
I frequently see players berate other players for betting, or raising, a heads-up hand on the end in situations in which the pot is split. The complaint is that such an action costs both players money by contributing unnecessarily to the rake. The thinking goes that if a player knows that the pot will be split, it is foolish to throw additional money on the table for the house to rake before giving it back to the players. I've witnessed some very nasty comments directed at players who have made bets on the end with full knowledge that calling the bet would result in a split-pot. I've also witnessed players thank an opponent for not betting on the end and accepting the split-pot without further action.
Actually the players making these kinds of comments frequently misunderstand how the rake is calculated. In many of these situations the additional action is not generating rake for the house. The rake structure at most cardrooms usually includes a cap on the total rake taken from a single pot. Once a pot becomes large enough that the rake is capped, further bets and raises do not cost the players additional money. However, the cap depends on the number of players dealt into the hand (not the number seated at the table) which makes knowing when the cap is in effect difficult at times.
For example, consider the rake structure of a $2-4 Stud-Eight game at Full Tilt Poker . The rake is 5%, or $0.50 per $10 in the pot. But, if only two players are dealt into the hand the rake is capped at $0.50. In heads-up play, with the two players betting on every street, the cap will be reached by Fifth Street. That means action before a showdown will not cost the players or benefit the house. But, if it's the same $2-4 limits with seven players dealt into the hand, the rake is still 5%, but the cap rises to $3.00. It now takes a $60 pot to cap the rake. In a $2-4 game $60 is a large pot, even with seven players dealt in because most will fold early in the hand. In most cases, additional action on the end will generate more rake for the house.
The reason for the discrepancy is that in a two-player hand, it is common to see each player make $2 Fourth Street bets followed by $4 Fifth Street bets and a $10 pot that caps the rake is reached. But is very rare in a seven-player hand to see every single player contribute $2 on Fourth Street and $4 on Fifth Street. Even if that happened, the $42 contributed is still less than the $60 needed to cap the rake.
The situation is a little different in the $2-4 games at Poker Stars. In a two-player game the rake cap is $1, however, only $0.50 is taken from the first $20 in the pot. In a seven-player game the rake is capped at $3.00, but $1.00 is taken from a $20 pot, which is the same as at Full Tilt.
What is important to realize is that the $3 cap at Full Tilt and Poker Stars applies to all games at $2-4 limits and higher. In $5-10 games, in which $60 pots would be common, the same 5% of the pot up to $3.00 applies. Also, both cardrooms reduce the rake cap for limits less than $2-4. For $1-2 games the maximum rake at each site is $1.00, and for $0.50-1 games is it $0.50.
This means that the rake structure for the $2-4 game is the least favorable for the players because at that limit, the $3.00 cap on the rake will rarely be reached. Additional bets on the end will generate more rake for the house. You are better off playing at either a higher or lower limit than $2-4.
Both sites, by the way, have policy of not raking a hand unless it gets to Fourth Street. No money is raked if no one calls the bring-in, or if everyone folds to a raise on Third Street.
It is clear from examining the rake structures, that the complaints that players are wasting money with bets on the end are not always true. For low-limit games-$1-2 and below-a pot size of 10 large bets caps the rake. For medium to high-limit games-$3-6 and above-a pot size of 10 large bets or less caps the rake. It is only at the $2-4 limit that extra action at the end costs the player money.
Of course, even if the action on the end is generating more rake for the house, players need to be careful about automatically assuming that their opponent will not fold to a bet. Even if the bettor can't beat the board, that doesn't mean that the opponent will have enough confidence in a small pair showing along with a missed low-hand to call. That situation occurs frequently in Stud-Eight. Inducing a single fold of a better high hand could pay for all of the additional rake spent on hands in which the other player did not fold.
Actually the players making these kinds of comments frequently misunderstand how the rake is calculated. In many of these situations the additional action is not generating rake for the house. The rake structure at most cardrooms usually includes a cap on the total rake taken from a single pot. Once a pot becomes large enough that the rake is capped, further bets and raises do not cost the players additional money. However, the cap depends on the number of players dealt into the hand (not the number seated at the table) which makes knowing when the cap is in effect difficult at times.
For example, consider the rake structure of a $2-4 Stud-Eight game at Full Tilt Poker . The rake is 5%, or $0.50 per $10 in the pot. But, if only two players are dealt into the hand the rake is capped at $0.50. In heads-up play, with the two players betting on every street, the cap will be reached by Fifth Street. That means action before a showdown will not cost the players or benefit the house. But, if it's the same $2-4 limits with seven players dealt into the hand, the rake is still 5%, but the cap rises to $3.00. It now takes a $60 pot to cap the rake. In a $2-4 game $60 is a large pot, even with seven players dealt in because most will fold early in the hand. In most cases, additional action on the end will generate more rake for the house.
The reason for the discrepancy is that in a two-player hand, it is common to see each player make $2 Fourth Street bets followed by $4 Fifth Street bets and a $10 pot that caps the rake is reached. But is very rare in a seven-player hand to see every single player contribute $2 on Fourth Street and $4 on Fifth Street. Even if that happened, the $42 contributed is still less than the $60 needed to cap the rake.
The situation is a little different in the $2-4 games at Poker Stars. In a two-player game the rake cap is $1, however, only $0.50 is taken from the first $20 in the pot. In a seven-player game the rake is capped at $3.00, but $1.00 is taken from a $20 pot, which is the same as at Full Tilt.
What is important to realize is that the $3 cap at Full Tilt and Poker Stars applies to all games at $2-4 limits and higher. In $5-10 games, in which $60 pots would be common, the same 5% of the pot up to $3.00 applies. Also, both cardrooms reduce the rake cap for limits less than $2-4. For $1-2 games the maximum rake at each site is $1.00, and for $0.50-1 games is it $0.50.
This means that the rake structure for the $2-4 game is the least favorable for the players because at that limit, the $3.00 cap on the rake will rarely be reached. Additional bets on the end will generate more rake for the house. You are better off playing at either a higher or lower limit than $2-4.
Both sites, by the way, have policy of not raking a hand unless it gets to Fourth Street. No money is raked if no one calls the bring-in, or if everyone folds to a raise on Third Street.
It is clear from examining the rake structures, that the complaints that players are wasting money with bets on the end are not always true. For low-limit games-$1-2 and below-a pot size of 10 large bets caps the rake. For medium to high-limit games-$3-6 and above-a pot size of 10 large bets or less caps the rake. It is only at the $2-4 limit that extra action at the end costs the player money.
Of course, even if the action on the end is generating more rake for the house, players need to be careful about automatically assuming that their opponent will not fold to a bet. Even if the bettor can't beat the board, that doesn't mean that the opponent will have enough confidence in a small pair showing along with a missed low-hand to call. That situation occurs frequently in Stud-Eight. Inducing a single fold of a better high hand could pay for all of the additional rake spent on hands in which the other player did not fold.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Low Hands in Seven-Card Stud High-Low Eight-or-Better
I often see a great deal of confusion about the ranking of low-hands in Seven-Card Stud High-Low (Stud-Eight). This post is meant to explain the rankings.
When ranking low-hands, an Ace is always ranked as the lowest card. In Stud-Eight, a low hand must "qualify" to win the low pot. In contrast, the game of Razz awards the entire pot to the lowest hand with no conditions attached. To qualify for the low-pot, a low-hand must contain five cards with none paired, and none ranked higher than an 8. For example: 8, 5 4, 2, A and 7, 6, 4, 3, 2 are qualifying low hands. A hand such as 9, 4, 3, 2, A does not qualify for low. When comparing low hands, the high cards are compared first. Therefore 8, 4, 3, 2, A would loose to 7, 6, 4, 3, 2. When high cards match the second highest cards are compared and so on until there is a discrepancy. For example 8, 7, 4, 3, 2 would loose to 8, 6, 4, 3, 2 and 8, 6, 4, 3, A would beat 8, 6, 4, 3, 2. If all cards in two or more qualifying low hands match, the players split the low pot.
Straights and flushes do not disqualify a hand from low. As a result, the best possible low hand is 5, 4, 3, 2, A, a hand that could also compete for the high pot as a 5-high straight. A hand such as A, 2, 4, 5, 7 all in spades, could compete as an Ace-high flush for the high pot, and 7-high low for the low pot. In high-only poker, the dream hand is the "royal flush" (Ace-high straight flush) because it out-ranks all other hands. In high-low games, the dream hand is the "steel wheel" which is an A, 2, 3, 4, 5, all in the same suit. Simultaneously it serves as the best possible low hand, and as a 5-high straight flush. Even thought it is the lowest-ranked straight flush, it would win high against any player with four-of-a-kind.
There are a total of 56 qualified low hands in Stud-Eight. Ranked from best (lowest), to worse (highest), the low hands can be categorized by the highest card in the group. Here is a listing of the low-hands in order of rank, with the total number of each kind of hand in parenthesis.
.
5-high hands (1)
5, 4, 3, 2, A
6-high hands (5)
6, 4, 3, 2, A
6, 5, 3, 2, A
6, 5, 4, 2, A
6, 5, 4, 3, A
6, 5, 4, 3, 2
7-high hands (15)
7, 4, 3, 2, A
7, 5, 3, 2, A
7, 5, 4, 2, A
7, 5, 4, 3, A
7, 5, 4, 3, 2
7, 6, 3, 2, A
7, 6, 4, 2, A
7, 6, 4, 3, A
7, 6, 4, 3, 2
7, 6, 5, 2, A
7, 6, 5, 3, A
7, 6, 5, 3, 2
7, 6, 5, 4, A
7, 6, 5, 4, 2
7, 6, 5, 4, 3
8-high hands (35)
8, 4, 3, 2, A
8, 5, 3, 2, A
8, 5, 4, 2, A
8, 5, 4, 3, A
8, 5, 4, 3, 2
8, 6, 3, 2, A
8, 6, 4, 2, A
8, 6, 4, 3, A
8, 6, 4, 3, 2
8, 6, 5, 2, A
8, 6, 5, 3, A
8, 6, 5, 3, 2
8, 6, 5, 4, A
8, 6, 5, 4, 2
8, 6, 5, 4, 3
8, 7, 3, 2, A
8, 7, 4, 2, A
8, 7, 4, 3, A
8, 7, 4, 3, 2
8, 7, 5, 2, A
8, 7, 5, 3, A
8, 7, 5, 3, 2
8, 7, 5, 4, A
8, 7, 5, 4, 2
8, 7, 5, 4, 3
8, 7, 6, 2, A
8, 7, 6, 3, A
8, 7, 6, 3, 2
8, 7, 6, 4, A
8, 7, 6, 4, 2
8, 7, 6, 4, 3
8, 7, 6, 5, A
8, 7, 6, 5, 2
8, 7, 6, 5, 3
8, 7, 6, 5, 4
Notice that in each grouping, the low-hand that also competes for the high-pot as a straight is the worse low-hand that you can have. An 8-high straight loses the low pot to all other 8-high low-hands, a 7-high straight loses the low-pot to all other 7-high low-hands, and a 6-high straight loses the low-pot to all other 6-high low-hands. Also notice how common an 8-7 high low-hand is compared to the other low-hands. Of the 56 possible low-hands, 20 are 8-7 high low-hands, which is more than all the 7-high low-hands combined (15 total).
Note for Omaha High-Low players:
Low-hands are ranked the same in Omaha High-Low and in Stud-Eight, but I've seen players become confused in determining the rank of their low-hands. In Omaha High-Low, you must use three community cards combined with two in your hand. That means that if the community cards include an 8, 7, 6, and you hold an A, 2, your hand is the best possible low-hand. It is still an 8-high low-hand, but no one can make a better low given the community cards. That rule makes an A, 2 a powerful holding in Omaha High-Low. But in Stud-Eight, if you have an 8, 7, 6, A, 2, you lose the low-pot to a player with a 7, 6, 5, 4, 3. You have an 8-high low-hand and your opponent has a 7-high low-hand. The 7-high bests the 8-high for the low-pot. The fact that you have A, 2, for your lowest cards, does not matter because it is the high card in the hand that counts.
It is also worth noting, that in contrast to Omaha High-Low, being "quartered" in Stud-Eight is a rare event. In Omaha High-Low, it is common for two players to each have the best possible low-hand and split the low-pot (each receive one-quarter of the total pot). For example if two players each have an A, 2, and the community cards included 8, 7, 6, each player has the same low-hand. But, in Stud-Eight there are no community cards, which means that to split a low-pot all five cards in the players' low-hands must match. A single un-matched card will decide the low-pot. For example, a player with 7, 6, 5, 3, 2 would lose the low-pot to a 7, 6, 5, 3, A, because the Ace beats the 2 for low.
When ranking low-hands, an Ace is always ranked as the lowest card. In Stud-Eight, a low hand must "qualify" to win the low pot. In contrast, the game of Razz awards the entire pot to the lowest hand with no conditions attached. To qualify for the low-pot, a low-hand must contain five cards with none paired, and none ranked higher than an 8. For example: 8, 5 4, 2, A and 7, 6, 4, 3, 2 are qualifying low hands. A hand such as 9, 4, 3, 2, A does not qualify for low. When comparing low hands, the high cards are compared first. Therefore 8, 4, 3, 2, A would loose to 7, 6, 4, 3, 2. When high cards match the second highest cards are compared and so on until there is a discrepancy. For example 8, 7, 4, 3, 2 would loose to 8, 6, 4, 3, 2 and 8, 6, 4, 3, A would beat 8, 6, 4, 3, 2. If all cards in two or more qualifying low hands match, the players split the low pot.
Straights and flushes do not disqualify a hand from low. As a result, the best possible low hand is 5, 4, 3, 2, A, a hand that could also compete for the high pot as a 5-high straight. A hand such as A, 2, 4, 5, 7 all in spades, could compete as an Ace-high flush for the high pot, and 7-high low for the low pot. In high-only poker, the dream hand is the "royal flush" (Ace-high straight flush) because it out-ranks all other hands. In high-low games, the dream hand is the "steel wheel" which is an A, 2, 3, 4, 5, all in the same suit. Simultaneously it serves as the best possible low hand, and as a 5-high straight flush. Even thought it is the lowest-ranked straight flush, it would win high against any player with four-of-a-kind.
There are a total of 56 qualified low hands in Stud-Eight. Ranked from best (lowest), to worse (highest), the low hands can be categorized by the highest card in the group. Here is a listing of the low-hands in order of rank, with the total number of each kind of hand in parenthesis.
.
5-high hands (1)
5, 4, 3, 2, A
6-high hands (5)
6, 4, 3, 2, A
6, 5, 3, 2, A
6, 5, 4, 2, A
6, 5, 4, 3, A
6, 5, 4, 3, 2
7-high hands (15)
7, 4, 3, 2, A
7, 5, 3, 2, A
7, 5, 4, 2, A
7, 5, 4, 3, A
7, 5, 4, 3, 2
7, 6, 3, 2, A
7, 6, 4, 2, A
7, 6, 4, 3, A
7, 6, 4, 3, 2
7, 6, 5, 2, A
7, 6, 5, 3, A
7, 6, 5, 3, 2
7, 6, 5, 4, A
7, 6, 5, 4, 2
7, 6, 5, 4, 3
8-high hands (35)
8, 4, 3, 2, A
8, 5, 3, 2, A
8, 5, 4, 2, A
8, 5, 4, 3, A
8, 5, 4, 3, 2
8, 6, 3, 2, A
8, 6, 4, 2, A
8, 6, 4, 3, A
8, 6, 4, 3, 2
8, 6, 5, 2, A
8, 6, 5, 3, A
8, 6, 5, 3, 2
8, 6, 5, 4, A
8, 6, 5, 4, 2
8, 6, 5, 4, 3
8, 7, 3, 2, A
8, 7, 4, 2, A
8, 7, 4, 3, A
8, 7, 4, 3, 2
8, 7, 5, 2, A
8, 7, 5, 3, A
8, 7, 5, 3, 2
8, 7, 5, 4, A
8, 7, 5, 4, 2
8, 7, 5, 4, 3
8, 7, 6, 2, A
8, 7, 6, 3, A
8, 7, 6, 3, 2
8, 7, 6, 4, A
8, 7, 6, 4, 2
8, 7, 6, 4, 3
8, 7, 6, 5, A
8, 7, 6, 5, 2
8, 7, 6, 5, 3
8, 7, 6, 5, 4
Notice that in each grouping, the low-hand that also competes for the high-pot as a straight is the worse low-hand that you can have. An 8-high straight loses the low pot to all other 8-high low-hands, a 7-high straight loses the low-pot to all other 7-high low-hands, and a 6-high straight loses the low-pot to all other 6-high low-hands. Also notice how common an 8-7 high low-hand is compared to the other low-hands. Of the 56 possible low-hands, 20 are 8-7 high low-hands, which is more than all the 7-high low-hands combined (15 total).
Note for Omaha High-Low players:
Low-hands are ranked the same in Omaha High-Low and in Stud-Eight, but I've seen players become confused in determining the rank of their low-hands. In Omaha High-Low, you must use three community cards combined with two in your hand. That means that if the community cards include an 8, 7, 6, and you hold an A, 2, your hand is the best possible low-hand. It is still an 8-high low-hand, but no one can make a better low given the community cards. That rule makes an A, 2 a powerful holding in Omaha High-Low. But in Stud-Eight, if you have an 8, 7, 6, A, 2, you lose the low-pot to a player with a 7, 6, 5, 4, 3. You have an 8-high low-hand and your opponent has a 7-high low-hand. The 7-high bests the 8-high for the low-pot. The fact that you have A, 2, for your lowest cards, does not matter because it is the high card in the hand that counts.
It is also worth noting, that in contrast to Omaha High-Low, being "quartered" in Stud-Eight is a rare event. In Omaha High-Low, it is common for two players to each have the best possible low-hand and split the low-pot (each receive one-quarter of the total pot). For example if two players each have an A, 2, and the community cards included 8, 7, 6, each player has the same low-hand. But, in Stud-Eight there are no community cards, which means that to split a low-pot all five cards in the players' low-hands must match. A single un-matched card will decide the low-pot. For example, a player with 7, 6, 5, 3, 2 would lose the low-pot to a 7, 6, 5, 3, A, because the Ace beats the 2 for low.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Low Straight Blockers
When betting on a high pair in Seven-Card Stud High-Low, against a player showing a bunch of scary-looking low-cards, the possibility of being scooped by a low straight must be considered. Conversely, if you have a bunch of low-cards, how likely is it that your hand will also fill out into a low straight? The chances of a bunch of low-cards turning into a low straight depend on the availability of the "blockers." That is the location of cards that are necessary for a low straight to form. If the needed cards are dead, the low straight is blocked, and the relative value of the high-hand goes way up in relation to the low-hand.
That means that when reading the board, you should look for exposed cards that block the completion of low straights. For example, if you started with 2, 3, 4, and picked up a 6 on Fourth Street, be on the lookout for the 5s. If three of the 5s are exposed on the board, your hand has gone way down in value. Your straight potential is down to just one out. You are essentially drawing for just one half the pot, which is a violation of the most fundamental principle of high-low poker, that you should always play to scoop.
Knowing the blockers is also important if you are going high. Suppose your hand is (4, 4,) 4, J and Bob raises with (X, X) 3, 5. You see the remaining 4 in Alice's hand. Your draw for quads might be dead, but more importantly; Bob's draw for any kind of low straight is completely dead. He will not hit a wheel, or even an 8-high straight. You can re-raise Bob all you want, because he will not beat you with a straight.
Here is a table of blockers for low straights (8-high or less):
It is important to note in the above table the critical role of the 4s and 5s. If either rank is dead, no low straights (8-high or less) are possible. If the 4s are dead the minimum allowed straight is a 9-high, and for the 5s the minimum is a 10-high. Players with exposed low cards (8s and less) are less likely to reach straights that high.
Also note from the table that these two-card combinations that will block all low straights.
A, 6
2, 6
3, 6
2, 7
3, 7
3, 8
In other words, if any single wheel card plus the 6s are dead, no low straights are possible. Dead 2s or dead 3s combined with dead 7s block all low straights. Dead 3s and 8s block all low straights.
Keeping track of blockers is especially important on later streets in determining hand values. Two 5s might be gone on by Fourth Street, but if all are dead by Sixth Street, that is useful information for deciding whether to value bet on the end.
That means that when reading the board, you should look for exposed cards that block the completion of low straights. For example, if you started with 2, 3, 4, and picked up a 6 on Fourth Street, be on the lookout for the 5s. If three of the 5s are exposed on the board, your hand has gone way down in value. Your straight potential is down to just one out. You are essentially drawing for just one half the pot, which is a violation of the most fundamental principle of high-low poker, that you should always play to scoop.
Knowing the blockers is also important if you are going high. Suppose your hand is (4, 4,) 4, J and Bob raises with (X, X) 3, 5. You see the remaining 4 in Alice's hand. Your draw for quads might be dead, but more importantly; Bob's draw for any kind of low straight is completely dead. He will not hit a wheel, or even an 8-high straight. You can re-raise Bob all you want, because he will not beat you with a straight.
Here is a table of blockers for low straights (8-high or less):
| Dead Rank | straights blocked | straights possible |
| A | 5-high | 6-high, 7-high, 8-high |
| 2 | 5-high, 6-high | 7-high, 8-high |
| 3 | 5-high, 6-high, 7-high | 8-high |
| 4 | 5-high, 6-high, 7-high, 8-high | none |
| 5 | 5-high, 6-high, 7-high, 8-high | none |
| 6 | 6-high, 7-high, 8-high | 5-high |
| 7 | 7-high, 8-high | 5-high, 6-high |
| 8 | 8-high | 5-high, 6-high, 7-high |
It is important to note in the above table the critical role of the 4s and 5s. If either rank is dead, no low straights (8-high or less) are possible. If the 4s are dead the minimum allowed straight is a 9-high, and for the 5s the minimum is a 10-high. Players with exposed low cards (8s and less) are less likely to reach straights that high.
Also note from the table that these two-card combinations that will block all low straights.
A, 6
2, 6
3, 6
2, 7
3, 7
3, 8
In other words, if any single wheel card plus the 6s are dead, no low straights are possible. Dead 2s or dead 3s combined with dead 7s block all low straights. Dead 3s and 8s block all low straights.
Keeping track of blockers is especially important on later streets in determining hand values. Two 5s might be gone on by Fourth Street, but if all are dead by Sixth Street, that is useful information for deciding whether to value bet on the end.
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Key Concepts in High-Low Poker: Part II
This is a continuation of a post in October on concepts for high-low poker. If you have only played variants of poker in which the high-hand wins the entire pot, and are trying to learn some of the split-pot games, here are some key concepts for high-low play that apply to Seven-Card Stud High-Low Eight-or Better Poker (Stud-Eight), as well as Omaha High-Low Eight-or-Better.
Split-pots generate action: Many players complain about split-pot games, because it is possible for a powerful (monster) hand, such as quads, to split a heads-up pot resulting in a slight loss after the rake is subtracted. It seems unfair that you can hit a hand as rare as quads, and have to share the winnings. But, while winning the hand isn't a problem when you hit a monster, getting action on that hand often is a problem.
Consider holding pocket Aces in Hold'em or Omaha and flopping quads. Pairs on the board are scary enough, and since no one else has Aces you are unlikely to generate much action. Even someone with a full boat might be cautious. The same problem exists in Seven-Card Stud. It is possible to hold quads, or a boat, without showing a pair, but unlikely. If you have an exposed pair of Aces your action will dry up.
But, in split-pot games, action is possible in these circumstances because potential lows might try to draw. Sometimes they will hit the low, and you will have to share. But a certain fraction of the time, the low will not qualify, and you keep it all. Just remember, in each case you are receiving action that might not have occurred in a high-only game. If more than one low-draw joins the fray, you are assured of winning money, and can raise without risk of losing or driving out paying customers.
It might be frustrating to share large pots with a nut-high, but remember the pot might not have had any value had competition for a low-pot not been possible.
Starting card requirements should be tighter: Split-pot games have different starting card requirements than high-only games, because the goal is to scoop. Starting hands must have the potential to win the high-pot or low-pot, and ideally both. Because high-low games offer so many different kinds of drawing opportunities, many players think that starting hand requirements can be looser than for high-only games, such as Seven-Card Stud or Hold'em. Actually, the reverse is true. Starting hand requirements need to be much tighter, because coordinated starting cards that have the potential to attack both sides of the pot are rare holdings. In Hold'em, each player receives just two cards, and that makes just about any pair, or any two high-cards a potential winner. But, in Stud-Eight, three starting cards are less likely to coordinate than two. Starting hand requirements are discussed at great length at StudHighLow.com. However, there are some general principles.
-- Aces, either singly or paired, are the most valuable starting cards because of their potential to complete both a high-hand, and a low-hand.
-- Connected low-cards, suited low-cards, and connected-suited low-cards have the greatest potential to scoop large multi-way pots.
-- Mid-range cards, especially 9s, 10s, Js, play poorly, and should be avoided. However, even 8s, Qs, and Ks can lead to problems.
Strong starting hands in Stud-Eight also need to be "live," meaning that the cards needed to improve must not exposed in other hands. An A, 2, 3, all in Clubs is a great looking starting hand in Stud-Eight, unless you are looking out at a board with the 5, 6, 9 in Clubs, and two of the remaining Aces. It is frequent to receive starting cards that look great, but need to be mucked, because too many of the cards needed to improve are exposed in other hands.
Fold equity is reduced: There are two ways to win a pot in poker-have the best cards at showdown, or induce the other players to fold before a showdown happens. The act of betting is intended to put more money in the pot to win when you have the best cards. But, betting also forces opponents to make decisions, and folding is one alternative when confronted with a bet. The chance that a bet will win the pot uncontested is known as "fold equity." Bets in high-low games have much less fold equity than bets in high-only games, especially late in the hand if the pot is large. Players that failed to improve for the high-pot, might still have many outs available for the low-pot, so it is not in their long-term interests to fold to hands that will clearly win the high-pot. The reduced fold equity means that aggression, and bluffing, must be combined with cards that work together to attack both sides of the pot. Aggression will not win by itself, because players call much more frequently in high-low games.
Most fold equity in Stud-Eight is available early in the hand, when players with marginal cards will fold to bets and raises, because they do not want to be sucked too deeply into a hand with limited opportunities. However, players, who stay until Sixth Street, are usually in it until the end. Part of the problem, is that by Sixth Street, many pots become so large, that drawing to half the pot becomes mathematically correct. This is especially true for players who missed their high chances, but still have ten or more outs for a low-hand. Contesting a small pot on Third Street, with a hand that can only compete for the low-pot makes no sense mathematically. But, a large multi-way pot on Sixth Street is a different case, particularly if a draw to a low-hand is still live. My own experience, playing Stud-Eight, is that fold equity on Sixth Street is close to zero. Opponents willing to call a large bet on Fifth Street, almost never fold to a Sixth Street bet. An opponent willing to fold on Seventh Street is slightly more common, because of missed low-draws, but it is still an uncommon event. The fact is that you will show down more hands in Stud-Eight compared to most other variations of poker.
For big money invest in low-straights and low-flushes: In high-only games, when you think of monster hands, what come to mind are full houses and quads. Ironically, in high-low games filling up can often be detrimental to your financial outcome. For example, in Stud-Eight, if you hold A, A, 3, 3, 4, 6 going to the river, a final card of 2 might scoop the pot with Aces-up for a high-hand, and a 6-high for a low-hand. But, if an A, or 3, hits the full house disqualifies your hand from competing for the low-pot. Because two-pair, and trips are vulnerable hands in games with many competitors going to the river, the hands that have the best change of holding up for the high-pot, and winning the low-pot are the small straights, and Ace-high flushes with a complement of small cards. A hand such as 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, is simultaneously a 6-high low-hand, and a 6-high straight. The hand A, 2, 4, 5, 7, all is Spades is simultaneously a 7-high low-hand, and an Ace-high flush. In both of these examples, the hand is simultaneously a powerful low-hand and a powerful high-hand. In the case of the straight, it beats anyone holding two pair or trips, and in the case of the flush it beats anyone holding a straight.
Low-straights and low-flushes are also rare hands that can never be completely exposed, because five cards are required. That means if the pot is large, any player with two pair, or trips, will have to call you down at the end to make sure that your hand is not just a low-hand. Draws to these hands also offer excellent freeroll opportunities. Suppose after Fifth Street, you have A-Hearts, 2-Hearts, 4-Hearts, 5-Hearts, 6-clubs. Your hand is a 6-high low-hand, that might have a lock on the low-pot. At the same time you have two cards to come, and any Heart gives you an Ace-high flush, a 3-Diamonds, 3-Spades, or 3-Clubs, gives you a 5-high straight, and a 3-Hearts gives you a 5-high straight flush. The draws to all of these possibilities are risk-free.
Split-pots generate action: Many players complain about split-pot games, because it is possible for a powerful (monster) hand, such as quads, to split a heads-up pot resulting in a slight loss after the rake is subtracted. It seems unfair that you can hit a hand as rare as quads, and have to share the winnings. But, while winning the hand isn't a problem when you hit a monster, getting action on that hand often is a problem.
Consider holding pocket Aces in Hold'em or Omaha and flopping quads. Pairs on the board are scary enough, and since no one else has Aces you are unlikely to generate much action. Even someone with a full boat might be cautious. The same problem exists in Seven-Card Stud. It is possible to hold quads, or a boat, without showing a pair, but unlikely. If you have an exposed pair of Aces your action will dry up.
But, in split-pot games, action is possible in these circumstances because potential lows might try to draw. Sometimes they will hit the low, and you will have to share. But a certain fraction of the time, the low will not qualify, and you keep it all. Just remember, in each case you are receiving action that might not have occurred in a high-only game. If more than one low-draw joins the fray, you are assured of winning money, and can raise without risk of losing or driving out paying customers.
It might be frustrating to share large pots with a nut-high, but remember the pot might not have had any value had competition for a low-pot not been possible.
Starting card requirements should be tighter: Split-pot games have different starting card requirements than high-only games, because the goal is to scoop. Starting hands must have the potential to win the high-pot or low-pot, and ideally both. Because high-low games offer so many different kinds of drawing opportunities, many players think that starting hand requirements can be looser than for high-only games, such as Seven-Card Stud or Hold'em. Actually, the reverse is true. Starting hand requirements need to be much tighter, because coordinated starting cards that have the potential to attack both sides of the pot are rare holdings. In Hold'em, each player receives just two cards, and that makes just about any pair, or any two high-cards a potential winner. But, in Stud-Eight, three starting cards are less likely to coordinate than two. Starting hand requirements are discussed at great length at StudHighLow.com. However, there are some general principles.
-- Aces, either singly or paired, are the most valuable starting cards because of their potential to complete both a high-hand, and a low-hand.
-- Connected low-cards, suited low-cards, and connected-suited low-cards have the greatest potential to scoop large multi-way pots.
-- Mid-range cards, especially 9s, 10s, Js, play poorly, and should be avoided. However, even 8s, Qs, and Ks can lead to problems.
Strong starting hands in Stud-Eight also need to be "live," meaning that the cards needed to improve must not exposed in other hands. An A, 2, 3, all in Clubs is a great looking starting hand in Stud-Eight, unless you are looking out at a board with the 5, 6, 9 in Clubs, and two of the remaining Aces. It is frequent to receive starting cards that look great, but need to be mucked, because too many of the cards needed to improve are exposed in other hands.
Fold equity is reduced: There are two ways to win a pot in poker-have the best cards at showdown, or induce the other players to fold before a showdown happens. The act of betting is intended to put more money in the pot to win when you have the best cards. But, betting also forces opponents to make decisions, and folding is one alternative when confronted with a bet. The chance that a bet will win the pot uncontested is known as "fold equity." Bets in high-low games have much less fold equity than bets in high-only games, especially late in the hand if the pot is large. Players that failed to improve for the high-pot, might still have many outs available for the low-pot, so it is not in their long-term interests to fold to hands that will clearly win the high-pot. The reduced fold equity means that aggression, and bluffing, must be combined with cards that work together to attack both sides of the pot. Aggression will not win by itself, because players call much more frequently in high-low games.
Most fold equity in Stud-Eight is available early in the hand, when players with marginal cards will fold to bets and raises, because they do not want to be sucked too deeply into a hand with limited opportunities. However, players, who stay until Sixth Street, are usually in it until the end. Part of the problem, is that by Sixth Street, many pots become so large, that drawing to half the pot becomes mathematically correct. This is especially true for players who missed their high chances, but still have ten or more outs for a low-hand. Contesting a small pot on Third Street, with a hand that can only compete for the low-pot makes no sense mathematically. But, a large multi-way pot on Sixth Street is a different case, particularly if a draw to a low-hand is still live. My own experience, playing Stud-Eight, is that fold equity on Sixth Street is close to zero. Opponents willing to call a large bet on Fifth Street, almost never fold to a Sixth Street bet. An opponent willing to fold on Seventh Street is slightly more common, because of missed low-draws, but it is still an uncommon event. The fact is that you will show down more hands in Stud-Eight compared to most other variations of poker.
For big money invest in low-straights and low-flushes: In high-only games, when you think of monster hands, what come to mind are full houses and quads. Ironically, in high-low games filling up can often be detrimental to your financial outcome. For example, in Stud-Eight, if you hold A, A, 3, 3, 4, 6 going to the river, a final card of 2 might scoop the pot with Aces-up for a high-hand, and a 6-high for a low-hand. But, if an A, or 3, hits the full house disqualifies your hand from competing for the low-pot. Because two-pair, and trips are vulnerable hands in games with many competitors going to the river, the hands that have the best change of holding up for the high-pot, and winning the low-pot are the small straights, and Ace-high flushes with a complement of small cards. A hand such as 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, is simultaneously a 6-high low-hand, and a 6-high straight. The hand A, 2, 4, 5, 7, all is Spades is simultaneously a 7-high low-hand, and an Ace-high flush. In both of these examples, the hand is simultaneously a powerful low-hand and a powerful high-hand. In the case of the straight, it beats anyone holding two pair or trips, and in the case of the flush it beats anyone holding a straight.
Low-straights and low-flushes are also rare hands that can never be completely exposed, because five cards are required. That means if the pot is large, any player with two pair, or trips, will have to call you down at the end to make sure that your hand is not just a low-hand. Draws to these hands also offer excellent freeroll opportunities. Suppose after Fifth Street, you have A-Hearts, 2-Hearts, 4-Hearts, 5-Hearts, 6-clubs. Your hand is a 6-high low-hand, that might have a lock on the low-pot. At the same time you have two cards to come, and any Heart gives you an Ace-high flush, a 3-Diamonds, 3-Spades, or 3-Clubs, gives you a 5-high straight, and a 3-Hearts gives you a 5-high straight flush. The draws to all of these possibilities are risk-free.
Monday, December 7, 2009
Catching Bad versus Catching Good on Fourth Street
Fourth Street is a point in the hand when it is easy to get out before becoming too committed to the pot. Many players who catch a bad card on Fourth Street will make quick exits, and many times, a raise will hasten the exit of marginal hands. Before betting or raising into multi-way pots, it is important to think ahead about how potential raises will effect the action.
Consider these scenarios:
High-pair with no low:
You (J, K) K, 10
Alice (X, X) 2, 3
Bob (X, X) 4, 8
You have a big pair with no hope of a low-hand, against two players who have each caught low cards. However, neither Alice nor Bob has a low-hand yet, and your pair would stand a better chance of scooping in heads-up play. You should lead with a bet. If Alice has four little cards, she will raise to force Bob, her other low-hand competitor, off the hand. Then you can re-raise Alice, to make her pay to draw out on you for the low-pot. If you instead check to the lows in this hand, Alice will bet, Bob will call, and you won’t have much better to do but call and hope for the best. A check-raise after Alice bets and Bob calls, will probably not force anyone off the hand. Bob will stay at that point, even if Alice raises, because he is into the hand too deep.
A low-draw:
You (4, 5) 6, A
Alice (X, X) K, 9
Bob (X, X) Q, 10
You have caught a decent card, although, it does not connect with your initial three and that lessens the chance of scooping with a low straight. The Ace does act first on this board. It would be tempting to bet, but then Alice might raise Bob off the hand. If that happened, you would be drawing for just one-half the pot, heads-up against Alice. It would be better to check to Alice, let her bet and Bob call. Then you could call and keep both players in. Most likely, Alice and Bob each have a big pair and no chance for a low-hand. If you pickup a low hand later on, then you can drive the action make it difficult for both Bob and Alice.
Small pair:
You (4, 5) 4, J
Alice (X, X) K, Q
Bob (X, X) 6, 5
In this situation, you should check-fold your hand no matter how Alice or Bob play. Your hand is unlikely to make low, which means that all you really have is a pair of 4s for high against a probable pair of Kings. You will be playing catch up for one-half the pot, a terrible situation to be in. But, I’ve seen many players continue in the hand until the end with any kind of pair, a pattern that is sure to lose money over the long-run.
Second-best low:
Alice (X, X) K, Q
You (A, 3) 4, 8
Bob (X, X) 6, 5
If Alice leads with a bet in this situation, you should fold because of your position. You never want to be in the middle between the best high-hand and best low-hand because it will cost you four bets to see every card. If you call Alice, Bob will raise and Alice will re-raise. If you cold-call that two-bet raise, Bob will cap it. Your best hope after that is that Bob catches bad on 5th street and does not complete the low-hand, but you catch good and do. But, even if that happens—for example Bob gets a Jack while you get a 7—you are still in a tough spot because you have the worse possible low-hand—an 8-7—while Bob has a draw to a better low. If you both catch good cards—for example both you and Bob get 7s—you are in a terrible position on Fifth Street because you are not sure where your low-hand ranks and you have almost no chance of scooping. It is best to get out cheaply on Fourth Street before being faced with all these difficult and expensive decisions.
Potential monster with a brick:
Alice (X, X) Q, 7
You (3d, 4d) 5d, Ks
Bob (X, X) 6, 5
Alice leads with a bet and you are faced with a situation similar to the previous one, in which a call could lead to capped action. The difference is that you’ve caught a bad card for one of the best three-card starting hands. Your hand could develop into a monster, which means that you do not want to be raised out of it. At the same time, the bad card means that you do not want to put a lot of money in the pot. One possible solution is for you to make the raise. That might cause both Alice and Bob to pause. They would have to consider the possibility that you have wired Kings and just completed trips. If Bob raised, Alice might leave the hand and you might even have the highest hand at that point. If Bob called and Alice called, you would make it to Fifth Street for the cost of two small bets, instead of four, and could decide what to do from there. You might even get free cards on Fifth Street if Alice and Bob don’t improve.
Consider these scenarios:
High-pair with no low:
You (J, K) K, 10
Alice (X, X) 2, 3
Bob (X, X) 4, 8
You have a big pair with no hope of a low-hand, against two players who have each caught low cards. However, neither Alice nor Bob has a low-hand yet, and your pair would stand a better chance of scooping in heads-up play. You should lead with a bet. If Alice has four little cards, she will raise to force Bob, her other low-hand competitor, off the hand. Then you can re-raise Alice, to make her pay to draw out on you for the low-pot. If you instead check to the lows in this hand, Alice will bet, Bob will call, and you won’t have much better to do but call and hope for the best. A check-raise after Alice bets and Bob calls, will probably not force anyone off the hand. Bob will stay at that point, even if Alice raises, because he is into the hand too deep.
A low-draw:
You (4, 5) 6, A
Alice (X, X) K, 9
Bob (X, X) Q, 10
You have caught a decent card, although, it does not connect with your initial three and that lessens the chance of scooping with a low straight. The Ace does act first on this board. It would be tempting to bet, but then Alice might raise Bob off the hand. If that happened, you would be drawing for just one-half the pot, heads-up against Alice. It would be better to check to Alice, let her bet and Bob call. Then you could call and keep both players in. Most likely, Alice and Bob each have a big pair and no chance for a low-hand. If you pickup a low hand later on, then you can drive the action make it difficult for both Bob and Alice.
Small pair:
You (4, 5) 4, J
Alice (X, X) K, Q
Bob (X, X) 6, 5
In this situation, you should check-fold your hand no matter how Alice or Bob play. Your hand is unlikely to make low, which means that all you really have is a pair of 4s for high against a probable pair of Kings. You will be playing catch up for one-half the pot, a terrible situation to be in. But, I’ve seen many players continue in the hand until the end with any kind of pair, a pattern that is sure to lose money over the long-run.
Second-best low:
Alice (X, X) K, Q
You (A, 3) 4, 8
Bob (X, X) 6, 5
If Alice leads with a bet in this situation, you should fold because of your position. You never want to be in the middle between the best high-hand and best low-hand because it will cost you four bets to see every card. If you call Alice, Bob will raise and Alice will re-raise. If you cold-call that two-bet raise, Bob will cap it. Your best hope after that is that Bob catches bad on 5th street and does not complete the low-hand, but you catch good and do. But, even if that happens—for example Bob gets a Jack while you get a 7—you are still in a tough spot because you have the worse possible low-hand—an 8-7—while Bob has a draw to a better low. If you both catch good cards—for example both you and Bob get 7s—you are in a terrible position on Fifth Street because you are not sure where your low-hand ranks and you have almost no chance of scooping. It is best to get out cheaply on Fourth Street before being faced with all these difficult and expensive decisions.
Potential monster with a brick:
Alice (X, X) Q, 7
You (3d, 4d) 5d, Ks
Bob (X, X) 6, 5
Alice leads with a bet and you are faced with a situation similar to the previous one, in which a call could lead to capped action. The difference is that you’ve caught a bad card for one of the best three-card starting hands. Your hand could develop into a monster, which means that you do not want to be raised out of it. At the same time, the bad card means that you do not want to put a lot of money in the pot. One possible solution is for you to make the raise. That might cause both Alice and Bob to pause. They would have to consider the possibility that you have wired Kings and just completed trips. If Bob raised, Alice might leave the hand and you might even have the highest hand at that point. If Bob called and Alice called, you would make it to Fifth Street for the cost of two small bets, instead of four, and could decide what to do from there. You might even get free cards on Fifth Street if Alice and Bob don’t improve.
Friday, November 27, 2009
Overplaying the Eight
One of the most common mistakes I see in Seven-Card Stud High-Low, is overplaying 8-high low-hands. Many players raise the moment they make any kind of low-hand, even if it's on the river, and cold-call raises with a draw to any kind of low-hand, even if its an 8-high.
The problem is that the 8 is actually one of the deadliest cards you can hold, because an 8-high is the worse possible low-hand. Remember, that a low of 8, 4, 3, 2, A, loses the low-pot to 7, 6, 5, 4, 2, because low-hands are ranked by the highest card, not the lowest.
I once saw a player river an 8-high low-hand and fire an immediate raise. He was promptly called and scooped by an opponent with a 7-high low-hand and an exposed pair of 3s for high. The raiser could not beat the board for high, and yet raised on the basis a weak low-hand.
A river raise will hardly ever move a bettor off a hand in Seven-Card Stud High-Low. In fact, you will show more hands at the end then just about any other form of poker. Most players who bet until the end have something going for at least one-half of the pot. Remember, it is a fixed-limit game with pots that can grow very large by the end. With only one bet to call at the end, players with any kind of chance for any half of the pot usually pay to see the raiser's holdings. Many players with a small pair such as 3s, will call if they can beat the board for high, even if they miss a low-hand. The call often works because if multiple players are competing for low-hands only, it is not uncommon for a small pair, or even A-K, to take the high-pot at the end.
Because hands with an 8 qualify for low, many players automatically play them aggressively and often set themselves up for disaster. In one hand, I bet out a 7-5 low-hand on Fifth Street and was promptly raised by an opponent with an 8, 7, 5, showing on the board. Knowing it would be difficult for her to better my low-hand, I re-raised and ended up scooping the entire pot when at the end, I completed a 7-high straight.
In another hand my opponent was luckier. I had completed a 9-high straight on Fifth Street, and my opponent, who had an 8, 6, 10 exposed, cold-called my two-bet raise to draw to an 8-high low. On Sixth Street I picked up the 4 to make it 6 sequential cards, while my opponent hit a King and kept calling. He saved half the pot on the end when I caught a Queen that failed to improve my 8-7 low-hand and he picked up a 2 to complete an 8-6 low-hand. He got his money back, but calling all those raises in order to draw to second-worse low-hand that you can have, (the 8-high straight I held is the worse) will not win over the long-run.
The pitfalls of 8s, means that many of the so-called "Razz hands," such as starting cards of 8, 2, 3, or 8, 7, 3, or even 8, 2, A, should not be played. These hands are playable in Razz because the lowest hand takes the entire pot with no qualifier necessary. But, in Seven-Card Stud High-Low these cards are competing for one-half the pot, and are often second best for that half of the pot. If you play low starting cards, the cards should have some possibility of "connecting," that is complete a low straight, and rank better than an 8-high for the low-hand.
The problem is that the 8 is actually one of the deadliest cards you can hold, because an 8-high is the worse possible low-hand. Remember, that a low of 8, 4, 3, 2, A, loses the low-pot to 7, 6, 5, 4, 2, because low-hands are ranked by the highest card, not the lowest.
I once saw a player river an 8-high low-hand and fire an immediate raise. He was promptly called and scooped by an opponent with a 7-high low-hand and an exposed pair of 3s for high. The raiser could not beat the board for high, and yet raised on the basis a weak low-hand.
A river raise will hardly ever move a bettor off a hand in Seven-Card Stud High-Low. In fact, you will show more hands at the end then just about any other form of poker. Most players who bet until the end have something going for at least one-half of the pot. Remember, it is a fixed-limit game with pots that can grow very large by the end. With only one bet to call at the end, players with any kind of chance for any half of the pot usually pay to see the raiser's holdings. Many players with a small pair such as 3s, will call if they can beat the board for high, even if they miss a low-hand. The call often works because if multiple players are competing for low-hands only, it is not uncommon for a small pair, or even A-K, to take the high-pot at the end.
Because hands with an 8 qualify for low, many players automatically play them aggressively and often set themselves up for disaster. In one hand, I bet out a 7-5 low-hand on Fifth Street and was promptly raised by an opponent with an 8, 7, 5, showing on the board. Knowing it would be difficult for her to better my low-hand, I re-raised and ended up scooping the entire pot when at the end, I completed a 7-high straight.
In another hand my opponent was luckier. I had completed a 9-high straight on Fifth Street, and my opponent, who had an 8, 6, 10 exposed, cold-called my two-bet raise to draw to an 8-high low. On Sixth Street I picked up the 4 to make it 6 sequential cards, while my opponent hit a King and kept calling. He saved half the pot on the end when I caught a Queen that failed to improve my 8-7 low-hand and he picked up a 2 to complete an 8-6 low-hand. He got his money back, but calling all those raises in order to draw to second-worse low-hand that you can have, (the 8-high straight I held is the worse) will not win over the long-run.
The pitfalls of 8s, means that many of the so-called "Razz hands," such as starting cards of 8, 2, 3, or 8, 7, 3, or even 8, 2, A, should not be played. These hands are playable in Razz because the lowest hand takes the entire pot with no qualifier necessary. But, in Seven-Card Stud High-Low these cards are competing for one-half the pot, and are often second best for that half of the pot. If you play low starting cards, the cards should have some possibility of "connecting," that is complete a low straight, and rank better than an 8-high for the low-hand.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
